The drive to Monterosso took us through (or rather around) Milan, and the air seemed to get even more hazy as we approached Milan. I became somewhat convinced that smog from Milan was the culprit making the air so hazy in Lake Como. As we left the Milan area the air cleared somewhat, but not as much as I had hoped. It was still hazy, but the air was still hot and very humid, so I think the humidity was part of the problem. As we climbed up and over some mountains driving toward the sea, I had hopes that the air would clear even more, but no luck. When we got our first view of the Mediterranean, it was still very hazy. What should have been a gorgeous view of shimmering blue sea was more like gray water with a hazy gray sky, even though the sun was shining.
Another Autogrill in Italy
The area through Genova seemed more populated than I expected with what appeared to be numerous apartment buildings populating the hillsides. Many, many tunnels later, we finally took the turnoff to Monterosso al Mare. This is the Italian Riviera, so of course more of my favorite kind of driving, switchbacks. Many curves later we began to get gorgeous views of Monterosso below.
Mountains on the drive
The haze did not seem so prominent and it was beautiful. As we descended the mountain toward Monterosso, there were many, many cars parked along the road. I knew that having a car in Lake Como and Cinque Terre would be a hassle, but it was more of an issue in Cinque Terre. We drove as far as we could (there’s a gate keeping all except specific cars out of Monterosso), then Jim went on foot in search of our hotel and to try to find if there was a way we could drive into the city. About 20-30 minutes later he returned, and as we expected, we were not allowed to drive into the city even to drop off luggage. So we unloaded everything while Jim went in search of parking. Apparently some of the parking along the road is free, but much of it you have to pay for. Very fortunately for us, there is a small parking garage just outside the gate and Jim was able to find a space there. Had we arrived on Friday rather than Thursday, I have a feeling we would not have been so lucky. Of course this convenient parking comes with a price, and Jim had to go back each day to pump more money into the parking “meter,” but at least he didn’t have to park too terribly far away.
Jim looking at the family from the top of the parking deck just outside of town
Grumpy Travelers walking the luggage into Monterossa Al Mare, Italy
Maddie just inside of Monterossa
Streets of Monterossa Al Mare
I swear we are almost to the hotel
Our hotel was not that far inside the city gate (Monterosso is really small) and as expected (based on the reviews we had read), the hotel was underwhelming. But, because we waited too late to secure accommodations, it was basically the only hotel in Monterosso that had space. The room was pretty small, with a very small bathroom, but the location was excellent, right in the heart of the old town and only a couple of minutes walk from the beach.
Finally get to Albergo Stella Della (our hotel)
Mac on the roof of our hotel
We got settled into our room, cranked up the AC and the wifi, and then went straight to the beach so the kids could go swimming. The beach in the old town is divided into the “private” beach, which you have to pay for (21 Euros for two people, which basically gets you a couple of chairs and an umbrella) and the public beach, which is just a regular beach anyone can use. I (and Maddie in particular) was somewhat offended by the private beach concept. It just seems so undemocratic. But the water on the public beach was just as clear and beautiful as the water on the private beach. And just as cold. The kids (and Jim and I, but less so) swam for a short while, then went back to our room to change and then to dinner at a lovely spot overlooking the beach.
Plaza just outside our hotel
Kids playing football by the beach
Public beach
More public beach
Maddie and Mac swimming
View of private beach
The food was delicious. I got the salmon, which was good, but Jim and McIntyre got the spaghetti Bolognese, which was amazing. I eat tomato sauce on pasta, but mainly because I know you’re supposed to. I guess I tolerate it, mostly. But this tomato sauce was unbelievable….the best I’ve ever had. I so wish I knew how to make it like that.
Tracy chatting it up with the waiter
Delicious Pasta
View from restaurant
After dinner, we went to the little playground near the beach so Mac could burn off some steam. It’s a nicely enclosed playground with an oh-so-modern spongy surface underneath. There was also a swing ride (very similar to one at Carowinds that is round and swings the kids out), so McIntyre of course had to ride that. The guy who ran the ride used a sort of fishing pole to dangle a doll that the kids all tried to grab as they went by.
Mac trying to get the banana
We loved the Gelato
Heading back to the hotel
Maddie hanging out at the top of our hotel
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